Today on the blog I'll be sharing some photos from my December trip to Ireland! I'll also be sharing some tips and recommendations throughout this post; so if you've ever thought of planning a trip to the Emerald Isle, hopefully, you will find something useful here.
PS. (Click to Enlarge Photos)
PS. (Click to Enlarge Photos)
I knew that we would be going to Scotland for Christmas again this year (blog post re: Scotland trip to follow), but we had also been toying with the idea of visiting another country in the UK or Europe, or nearby. Where to go? Somewhere warmer, maybe Italy or Greece? Sweden? Norway? Amsterdam? All of the above, and more, were considered as potential destinations.
In the end, we both agreed that Ireland was the place that we were wanting to visit, and I began looking into flights. I managed to score a direct flight from Calgary to Gatwick for less than $300 CAD (per person) with WestJet.
After looking at flights from Gatwick to ROI, we decided to fly into Knock County (Ireland West Airport) via Aer Lingus, and we were able to score some pretty cheap flights (around $60 CAD, if I remember correctly). Next; we focused on doing our research in order to figure out where and how we would like to spend our time. We were quick to decide that driving the Wild Atlantic Way, via car rental, would allow us to see many of the places we wanted to visit while enjoying a scenic drive along the way. The weather would be mild (compared to what we're used to in Canada, for certain), and we wanted to cover a lot of ground in the seven days that we had. We decided to book AirBnB's along the coast, 2-3 hours of driving distance on average between each stop. After booking our Airbnb's (+ a hotel in Cork and Dublin), we waited...
In the end, we both agreed that Ireland was the place that we were wanting to visit, and I began looking into flights. I managed to score a direct flight from Calgary to Gatwick for less than $300 CAD (per person) with WestJet.
After looking at flights from Gatwick to ROI, we decided to fly into Knock County (Ireland West Airport) via Aer Lingus, and we were able to score some pretty cheap flights (around $60 CAD, if I remember correctly). Next; we focused on doing our research in order to figure out where and how we would like to spend our time. We were quick to decide that driving the Wild Atlantic Way, via car rental, would allow us to see many of the places we wanted to visit while enjoying a scenic drive along the way. The weather would be mild (compared to what we're used to in Canada, for certain), and we wanted to cover a lot of ground in the seven days that we had. We decided to book AirBnB's along the coast, 2-3 hours of driving distance on average between each stop. After booking our Airbnb's (+ a hotel in Cork and Dublin), we waited...
December 10th, 2018 - Day One
(Left) We arrived at Ireland West Airport (Knock County) in the early afternoon, picked up our rental car and headed for Killybegs (Co. Donegal) with a planned stop in Sligo City for coffee, food, and a SIM card for the month (we'd be taking it to Scotland with us as well). (Right) An appropriately worded sign in Insomnia.
(Left) The first of many calorie dense but totally-worth-it treats, donuts from O'Hehirs in Sligo. (Right) Arriving at our Airbnb near Killybegs later that evening, Guinness and potato chips by the wood stove.
December 11th - Day Two
The beautiful sunrise during our first morning in Ireland, taken from the window of our Airbnb near Killybegs.
A quick stop for coffee at 'The Pod' while on our way over to Slieve League.
Sliabh Liag or Slieve League Cliffs, County Donegal - Less famous than Cliffs of Moher, yet reach nearly three times higher. These are some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe, reaching 601 meters high. If you hike to the top you will be granted with beautiful ocean views, and you may even spot some wildlife (or maybe just the sheep that linger on the cliff's edge nearby).
(Left) The Rusty Mackerel, Donegal - Fantastic pub with great pub food, decor, and a great place to stop for a Guinness after a brisk hike up the Slieve League cliffs. (Right) The private beach outside of our Airbnb near Killybegs.
After spending the morning exploring the Slieve League cliffs, picking up some fish and chips in Killybegs, and going for a walk along the beach, we headed to Strandhill in County Sligo.
After spending the morning exploring the Slieve League cliffs, picking up some fish and chips in Killybegs, and going for a walk along the beach, we headed to Strandhill in County Sligo.
Shells Cafe for Lunch & Hot Drink; I would absolutely recommend Shells, they are a fantastic place to sit down for lunch while enjoying a beach view.
Mammy Johnston's for Ice Cream & Gelato; like I said, many calories were encouraged.
Strandhill Beach, Strandhill
Voya Seaweed Baths, Strandhill
We'd watched a travel vlogger suggest stopping for an Irish seaweed bath while touring the WAW, so we knew that if we encountered one that we wanted to try it out. We came across Voya and we were able to book an appointment for the early evening (one of the perks of visiting in the off-season).
You begin with a few minutes in the sauna, before climbing into a hot bath filled with salt water and fresh seaweed. I'm not going to lie, it was a little weird - I usually get a little squeamish when I'm swimming and seaweed or other underwater plants reach out to touch my legs. The seaweed is farmed fresh (and if you've ever smelled seaweed washed up during high tide that has begun to decompose, you'll know it's not a pleasant smell or sight). Some of the perks of using fresh seaweed include that it is still soft, smells fresh, and carries more of the moisturizing benefits that we experienced. The water supply comes from the ocean, which can be seen across the way from the tub room window. This means that you are bathing in hot salt water and fresh seaweed. I can honestly say, my skin has never felt silkier, more smooth, or more moisturized.
Bonus: Voya also sells seaweed products for skin and hair, as well as candles and other miscellaneous items.
You begin with a few minutes in the sauna, before climbing into a hot bath filled with salt water and fresh seaweed. I'm not going to lie, it was a little weird - I usually get a little squeamish when I'm swimming and seaweed or other underwater plants reach out to touch my legs. The seaweed is farmed fresh (and if you've ever smelled seaweed washed up during high tide that has begun to decompose, you'll know it's not a pleasant smell or sight). Some of the perks of using fresh seaweed include that it is still soft, smells fresh, and carries more of the moisturizing benefits that we experienced. The water supply comes from the ocean, which can be seen across the way from the tub room window. This means that you are bathing in hot salt water and fresh seaweed. I can honestly say, my skin has never felt silkier, more smooth, or more moisturized.
Bonus: Voya also sells seaweed products for skin and hair, as well as candles and other miscellaneous items.
Murphy's Bar, Galway
From Strandhill, we drove down to Galway. We arrived in the evening to an Airbnb that, errr, let's just say it wasn't as pictured...after some quick thinking, and a flawless refund from Airbnb, we decided to stay at the Jurys Inn on Quay Street. It was reasonably priced and gave us quick access to the heart of Galway. We went for a lovely dinner and then decided to do a wee bit of a pub crawl. My favourite bar/pub was probably O'Connell's Bar, though I did appreciate the live music at some of the other venues we visited.
My only regret was being unable to visit Galway's Christmas Market, as it was closed by the time we made our way past that evening, and I was feeling a little too poorly the next day to walk up Quay Street (...if you know what I mean). I will definitely be back to visit Galway, I would love to spend more time there on a future trip. One of the best parts about visiting in December is how incredibly beautifully everything is decorated for Christmas. We did not come across a single shop, restaurant, or pub that did not have festive decor - this can be said for most of Ireland in December.
My only regret was being unable to visit Galway's Christmas Market, as it was closed by the time we made our way past that evening, and I was feeling a little too poorly the next day to walk up Quay Street (...if you know what I mean). I will definitely be back to visit Galway, I would love to spend more time there on a future trip. One of the best parts about visiting in December is how incredibly beautifully everything is decorated for Christmas. We did not come across a single shop, restaurant, or pub that did not have festive decor - this can be said for most of Ireland in December.
Quay Street, Galway, Ireland
December 12th - Day Three
We spent a large chunk of our third day driving, and this was by far the most amount of time that we spent on the road between locations. As I've said, I felt quite poorly, so I did sleep for most of the drive; waking up between towns to view the scenery. In all, we spent about five hours driving to Valentia Island in County Kerry. When we arrived, we checked into our next Airbnb (highly recommend 'The Boathouse' at Glanleam, we really wished we could have spent more time here). It was already dark out and we wanted to be up early the next day; so we cooked ourselves dinner and watched a few episodes of The Great British Bakeoff before settling into bed.
December 13th - Day Four
I was amazed by the view we woke up to on our fourth day, the boathouse is situated in an amazing location. Unfortunately, by the time we had gotten ready and packed, it had begun lashing rain. I can't complain, because this was the only day that it had really rained throughout our trip, and the views were lovely regardless.
Above: Views from 'The Boathouse' at Glanleam, Valentia Island
Most of the sights off of the coast were not visible due to the rainy weather (for example, we were unable to see the Skellig Islands, which have been popularized in recent years following the filming of Star Wars).
Additionally, tours do not run this time of year; again, I would like to return to this area and visit the islands during peak season.
Above: Rainy Valentia Island/Valentia Lighthouse at Cromwell Point
From Valentia Island, we headed to a rural Airbnb in Cork County. Along the way, we decided to make a stop at Ross Castle in Killarney National Park (County Kerry). The weather had improved, though the castle grounds were partially flooded from what I can only assume was many days of endless rain. Nevertheless, the castle was beautiful. Although it was the off-season, and the castle was closed for tours, there was still plenty to see.
Shortly after, we arrived at our AirBnb in Cork County. We immediately felt right at home; the loft was cozy, and there were miniature mince pies waiting for us upon arrival (beautiful touches by our host). We settled in beside the wood stove fire and watched The Crown on Netflix before heading to bed.
Above: Our cozy guest house in County Cork
December 14th - Day Five
We woke up and had breakfast, the ingredients for which were generously provided by our Airbnb host (as I said, beautiful and thoughtful touches). From here we drove to Cork City and checked into our hotel, The River Lee.
We decided to take a trip down to Kinsale, which is a short drive away, before the sunset. Kinsale is beautiful, and it may be one of my favourite places we visited. It reminds me very much of a little seaside town nearby my own hometown; St. Andrew's, New Brunswick.
We strolled through the colourful streets of Kinsale, and stopped for coffee in a small cafe and bookshop. After warming up, we set out again. We were able to witness a stunning sunset over the water, before heading back to the car (following a quick stop for souvenir shopping along the way).
After leaving Kinsale, we went out for a lovely dinner in Cork, before turning in for the night.
December 15th - Day Six
From Cork, we drove up to Dublin, the final stop on our itinerary. We quickly checked into our hotel...err, or, castle?
Clontarf Castle, Dublin
As many do while visiting Dublin, we had booked a tour for the Guinness Storehouse. There are many variations of tours and we were unsure of what tour might be best to pick, as we struggled to find details of what each entailed. We knew that we didn't want to do a self-guided tour, so we decided to upgrade to the Guinness 'Beer Club' tour. The upgrade was well worth the money, and our guide was absolutely fantastic. We were able to sample various other beers that Guinness has created, most of which are unavailable outside of Ireland. I would recommend this tour if you're planning a visit to the storehouse!
(Left) Guinness Storehouse Gravity Bar after dark (Right) Sampling and taste testing Guinness
Touring the Storehouse: Everything from production to advertising campaigns
And, of course, the Guinness Beer Academy, where I learned that short people like myself really need to reach (on their tip-toes) to perfect a pint of Guinness and earn their Beer Academy degree.
December 16th - Day Seven
I felt quite ill on this day, so we headed to the airport early, though our intentions initially were to see a bit of Dublin. We were able to spend some time in our hotel, which was lovely on its own and contained various art displays throughout.
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So there you have it, a whirlwind seven day trip to Ireland! I would love to return in peak season/summer time when the towns are bustling and everything is accessible. Additionally, I would love to visit Northern Ireland in the future. Next time I will be certain to set aside more time for my trip, as I would love to take my time at each destination and spend more time settling in. However, you can easily see a lot in seven days (though, daylight hours in the winter are significantly shorter!)
Have you been to Ireland, and if so, where were your favourite sights and places to visit?
Until next time,
- Courtney
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